I just climbed my 13th first one day ascent of El Capitan! Rob Slater and Randy Leavitt climbed the first ascent of Scorched Earth on El Capitan in 1987. The route is known for its steep pitches, loose rock and hard aiding. David Allfrey, Skiy Detray and I just climbed the first one day ascent of the route in 22 hours and 28 minutes. While short-fixing, I endured a 50 foot fall on the 4th pitch when a hook blew, a carabiner got lodged in my Gri-gri the camming mechanism failed and fell all the way to the end of my rope… leaving a nasty rope burn on my left forearm. We continued throughout the night, a few more cruxes ahead of us. One of which was “The Leavittator” pitch, a crack that starts off as thin as knifeblades and ends in a 10” offwidth that Skiy had to uses blocks of 2+4’s for protection. Once again, the comfort and performance of my Five Ten shoes was a crucial part of my gear and helped directly to our success of the climb.
Great climbers aren't born, they're made and the place that they learn their...