Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Off the scale in China - Steve Mcclure

 
Off the scale in China - Steve Mcclure
 
October 25, 2011 - 
 

Holy s***. This place is insane!

China. A country just over the edge of the radar. A little exploration here and there. But it is vast, and only just opening up. Are we in for a surprise as the view unfolds! People talk of our rock running out, but here in China we have not even begun. The Petzl rock trip is beginning at the area of Getu, a national park, only opened up maybe 10 years ago. Before that the only eyes that passed over the mind blowing scenery were that of the locals. But we are privileged to be here and to witness something totally off the scale with a natural arch that sinks all others dead in the water.

 

There is so much potential for climbing here that it makes my head spin. Petzl have done a massive effort to put up and clean a lot of routes ready for this trip, and to put the place on the map. And it deserves its place on the map; the map of wonders of the world, the places that climbers just must visit to be complete. Yosemite, Fontainbleu, Verdon, Kalymnos, Horseshoe, whatever your list, this one just got added!

There is pretty much every style at every grade, short intense hard 8’s, long multi-pitch 6’s, and the reverse. There are crimps and tufas and jugs. There is also a world of slopers and this stuff is shutting me down. Those with lots of compression and pinch and undercut strength will do well, if you are a crimper you need not apply. Just off vertical walls that look anything from 6a to 7a turn out to be 8c, the intensely scalloped surface offering endless holds, all of which are useless, like holding onto the inside of a breakfast bowl. Its totally unique. I’m crap at it, but I love it!

 

Join the Community

Popular Stories

Indian Creek to the Red Rock Rendezvous and Beyond - Chris Schulte
04-08-2014 - 
Back again for another Red Rock Rendezvous, this time fresh from the Utah...
Plastic & Rock: ‘Tis the Season…for both? - Angela Payne
04-14-2014 - 
There comes a time every year when the weather begins to improve, the...
Sweet Sandstone - Nicholas Milburn
04-11-2014 - 
What is a better way to spend spring break than bouldering on sweet...
Final Days in Guadalcazar - Urs Moosmuller
Urs Moosmuller
04-11-2014 - 
Most of my trip to Mexico has been spent climbing in Guadalcazar, Mexico....