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World Cup Boulder - Ian Dory

 
World Cup Boulder - Ian Dory
World Cup Boulder - Ian Dory
 
October 18, 2011 - 
 

Rumney

After Nor’easter it was great having some downtime and making our way to the outdoors in New Hampshire. To begin my preparation for the World Cup I thought clipping bolts in Rumney was a great idea, but the rain and bugs suggested otherwise. New England has very fickle weather and when the climbs I consider myself close to sending are short and powerful, weather is a large factor. It feels like every time I visit Rumney it’s always hot and raining, sigh.

 

In this upcoming World Cup I know there are going to be some amazing climbers in the upcoming Boulder, CO World Cup and all I can do is stay focused on my training and relaxed. The Lead World Cup will be taking place at my local home gym, Movement (climbing and fitness.) I know the route’s will be powerful, short and consistently difficulty to the top. Since I have had little time clipping bolts, as I have been more focused on bouldering, I am not setting to high of an expectation on myself. However this doesn’t mean that I am going to hold back on the wall. “A MUERTE” is the expression I am going to compete by.

After almost 2 weeks out east Jes and I made the epic drive back to Fort Collins from New Jersey. And a road trip of that distance cannot be complete without getting pulled over by a police officer, or 3. As far as I could tell there was no reason but. While crossing the border to Iowa on I-80, a police officer pulled up next to us, checked us out, then drove off; but then proceeded to slow down get behind us and flipped the lights on. Great. After the usual license and registration, he told us that we did not use are blinker to change lanes! As far as Jes and I were concerned we DID use the blinker, but I suppose he needed an excuse. After he asked Jes to step out of the car and privately interviewed her I started questioning her I felt like a search was about to happen. First time for everything! He proceeded to ask if there was any drugs, large amounts of cash and or weapons in the vehicle. With a slight chuckle I answered “no” but, was taken back when he accused me of “looking nervous” which I replied, “I had never been questioned like this before.” He asked me to step out of the car while informing me that Jes had given him consent to search her car. Her car, her decision! But, I know she was right in complying because refusing to a search just brings more problems!

So with nothing to fear but time to waste, I stepped out of the car and told him exactly what was in the car and who’s bags were who’s, where we came from where we were going, introduced Kona (Jes & my dog,) so on and so forth. The search went on for about an hour! It soon began to involve a number of officers opening and closing every possible hiding spot in her car, the gas tank, the engine, the trunk, under the car, under the carpets, in the sun roof, places I wasn’t even aware of in the car it was amazing to watch. Then without a sorry or anything the cop sent us on our way. We resumed our 28hour drive home again.

World Cup Boulder, Colorado. 10/6/11

First day of the IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP...

After experiencing Bouldering World Cups in Europe, Canada & the states, heading into Movement climbing gym for my first lead World Cup felt natural. I enjoyed seeing many of the same athletes from the other international competitions and it made have a sense of comfort.

The first day was a red point format which means; that all competitors watch one another as they try the route. A route preview was given to all the competitors before the competition began. The World Cup began with 36 men and 24 women and two lead routes ranging from 13c- 14b. We all climbed the routes in order with a 6 minute period to complete each route. Ten men and ten women were eliminated from the roster, and the rest moved on to semi-finals.

Semi-finals began the next day around 10am with some truly talented climbers such as Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Jakob Schubert. I, myself, did make it to Semis and was excited to be there among some of the strongest climbers competing again. Only 6 men and 6 women were chosen to move on from Semis to Finals and unfortunately I need to bring up my endurance for the next cup. No, I didn’t make it. But that didn’t take away my excitement when I learned my best friend and Boulder’s local, Matty Hong, made it to finals! Of course, seeing an American male and American female, Sasha DiGulian, in finals kept the crowd’s energy high. The two American competitors did amazing and really made us all proud! Great job Sasha & Matty way to represent! From my point of view the Cup in Boulder, CO seemed to be a great success and with the Olympic officials keeping close tabs on our sport, for the possibility of joining the Olympic family in 2020, I hope this event shows the potential climbing can and will offer!

 

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