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Training and Fall Goals - Greg Padovani

Training and Fall Goals - Greg Padovani
October 17, 2011 -  Greg Padovani    

These past couple months have been purely devoted to training. In November I am planning to put some of this training to the test at the Red, where I will try to put away two climbs that I have been chasing for quite some time – God’s Own Stone 14a and Pushing up Daisies 13c. God’s Own is a shorter, more powerful, crimpy and pocketie route. The crux puts my focus and flexibility to the test as I have to carefully cut my feet and swing a foot up to a small pocket and then rock up off of that. On all my attempts previously, I would miss the pocket ever so slightly and struggle to reaim my swing. Pushing Up is a longer climb (the extension of Flower Power that the Mother Lode). On my onsight attempt on it, I pulled the last crux and was locking off to grab the finish jug when the hold broke, destroyed my knuckle, and sent me barreling off the climb. These two climbs are my goals for the season.


Most of my training is cumulative for upcoming competitions. I have big goals for both ABS and SCS this year. I also have been doing some local ABS competitions – Kalamazoo, MI as well Vertical Endeavors (Chicago). One other competition that I competed at was the Battle of the Ages Competition at Adventure Rock, Milwaukee, WI. This is an annual competition that corresponds to the Manager’s Birthday. It was a fun and exciting rope competition.

Some noteworthy training techniques and exercise:


This is a cycling training technique that has been adapted to climbing and beyond. How I do is I choose an exercise (somewhat climbing specific: pull-ups, rows, campus board) or a boulder problem (or equivalent on the system board) that I can do without much struggle for 20 sec straight. Next, rest for 10 sec and then do another 20 sec of the original exercise, repeating 8 times total. At first this will and should seem easy but set 6, 7, and 8 you should be dying. It usually takes a little experimentation to get the weight, angles, exercise, and pace right. Either way, this technique has a plethora of research to support it for many other sports so I urge you to try and include it in your training arsenal.


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