Even though late, I finally bring a short report of World youth Championships in Imst 2011. Just ten days before the WYCH started in Imst, an European youth cup took place there on the same venue. One could take it as a part of training and so did a lot of competitors, even from another continents. But now I gonna aim for the most prestigious competition of the year for youth climbing. First two days were the qualification rounds on. Each day I had one route.
World Youth Championships Imst 2011 - Tomáš Binter
Even though the Imst climbing wall is one of the most visited for training I've ever been to, route setters had very difficiult work. The climbing time for qualification is set for six minutes and because the wall is very high and most overhanging in the upper part, the routes had to end before the final overhanging section. That causes, that the routes led mainly in more less vertical wall and with very poor and sloppy holds. In the first round I fell after a mistake, when I didn't pay enough attention and make a wrong beta for my feet. But still it was not bad and I could make it better the following day. Here came the nervousness, I had the whole rest of the day and the whole night to be nervous of the second route..:) When the qualification round had ended, the opening ceremony started. All the teams met on a football stadium nearby and than we all made a short walk around the venue. A short program ended with highline exhibition. The second route was quite different. The route setters took a route of youth A male category, sharpened it a lot and let us to fight with it. Finally, I started as the last of 62 climbers, so I had to wait very long. When my time came, the temperature increased over 26 degree. In fact I was surprised, that the route was even harder, than it looked and I expected my fall every moment. But i fought hard, and in crux part, where very hard clipping had to be done, I feinted. First I passed the quickdraw without clipping in order to have held the higher holds and then I returned and clipped. In fact, it may have cost me the power for next moves but also it may have been the right decision.
I didn't solve my aim to pass to the semifinals. Maybe one more step in each route would solve it, but I think that after long time I finally did a good job. Next day an incredible change of weather came. Cold and rainy, so the semifinal was not spectacular at all. And when the clouds disappeared, a huge surprise came. Only about 100 meters higher, snow appeared. What the hell?:) In fact, the competition hadn't such atmosphere as it is usual on WYCH and that's shame, I think.. But I'm glad that I could be there and again it was fine experience.