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The North Face Open 2011 - Ian Dory

 
The North Face Open 2011 - Ian Dory
The North Face Open 2011 - Ian Dory
 
September 29, 2011 - 
 

Ne2c Day before the before the comp: 9/22/11

After months of climbing out side with friends it’s time to shift gears and crush some plastic, in this year’s 2011 Nor’easter climbing conservation and music festival/ The North Face Open. The UBC pro tour is in Vermont, and the itch to take first place begins as I take on some of best of the best of the best. Climbing out side is my passion and I love the feel of real rock but, cant wait to see what the dedicated crew at Ne2c troughs at me plus the lights the crowds, the, energy it’s a personal addiction of mine.

 

For the Last several months I have been traveling with my fiancé Jes and climbing with some amazing people like Dave and Nalle . We have been busy climbing and developing a new area in Australia and I am now back in the states for the 3 annual Nor’ester climbing competition. After climbing with such talent I’m hoping to take down (win) this year’s comp. I feel stronger then I was this time last year and am really psyched to see where my new head space takes me. I have really enjoyed working with and climbing in the Ne2c pro tour completions. I say this only because I have had nothing but good experiences with how the comp is run, from the production to the setting each part of the Nor’easter is well thought out and not only a good time for the competitors but also for each spectators. After competing for a few years and doing World Cups overseas I have a good knowledge of how comps are run and what attracts people to events. I must say the crew of Eastern Mountain and NE2c have figured out a perfect chemistry.

The morning of the Qualifying round I was up and atum nice and early (5:30) usually I would not be up so early, but my fiancé Jes was working the event and need to be at ticketing by seven. This gave me the opportunity to see a truly beautiful Vermont sun rise and also to reflect on past competition and what I have learned throughout the last year of climbing and competing. My verdict was that the only way to do well during a pro competition is to stay relaxed and turn any fear in to energy and focus. The qualifying round went very well and I was able to send every climb within the time required. Only 10 people were getting knocked out before semifinals and I was confident that I could make it to the next round. Fingers were crossed for the weather holing up and for the rain not to fall for the rest of the festival.

All hope was lost as the rain began to fall right before the competition began and Semifinals was canceled in what could only be described as terrible conditions. For the first time in UBC history twenty people made it to finals. This was only after we were told that only the top six people from the first round were going to be in finals. Obviously, this was not fair and all the climbers voiced their opinions with what we thought was the best/appropriate solution. The final decision was that all the competitors were going to move forward and all have a shot at finals. The Semi-final problems were tweeked and as soon as the setters and production team was ready finals began. It did eliminated three climbs but, it was believed to be the best and most fair option. It only took a few hours for the weather to clear up and the pads to dry. This was the first competition that I felt super relaxed and approaching the situation with a great head space. Its great to see my friends whom are also my fellow competitors. Being in ISO with them, warming up, talking and waiting felt like home. We all every get to see each other at competitions so its always a nice reunion.

I found this climb very technical and very heavy with specific body position and balance. It had a core intensive last move and felt great to look at the problem work out the best possible beta in my mind and give it a go. I did flash it which set my pace for the competition and brought me to an even more psyched head space. It was great to have fellow friends/competitors around me like Ethan Pringle, Angie Payne, Matt Wilder, Dave Graham and my fiancé Jes front row watching and cheering me on.

Finals Problem #2: Knowing that no competitor has sent this problem and with such stiff competition such as Vasya and Big-Rob whom have gone before me I knew this problem was going to be quiet the challenge. It started with a one handed move to a terrible right hand sloppy ball and worked its way up to a roof which involved 2 hard hand sequences and a heinous hand foot match. It left me more or less pumped towards the finish of the problem where I found myself in a predicament. I either dyno for the finish hold or possibly loose the flash. After what felt like seconds of contemplation and feeling the left hand duel tex crimpn I switched into desperation mode. I grabbed an under cling foot jib on a volume and bumped my left hand to a good crimp. There I realized I was out of sequence, my only option left was to dyno, which I did, and snagged it! I suppose my training in Australia paid off since many problems Nalle, Dave & I did had very similar ending moves. This problem was my second flash which obviously made me smile even more and put me in the running for first place.

Finals Problem #3: With five minutes before climbing on problem #3 I was still pumped and could feel my body becoming super tired. I watched the clock beginning to count down and my only thoughts were about the possibility of having a perfect score and thinking about the people whom have helped me along the way. The buzzer sounded and I turned to see what the talented setting crew of NE2C had in store. The problem itself looked epicly-long and involved many hard crimp moved to a 360 turn on a pocket, which I read incorrectly. I took my first fall off of the pocket. After falling again at the same move, I laid down and let the clock run for two minutes as I watched the problem and tried to unravel the beta. With 35 seconds left on the clock I gave my last good burn. I only got a few moved further and then dropped off. Props to Vasya whom made that climb look very easy and even more props to my fellow competitors like Rob who finished #3.

As soon as it was over I knew I climb well and never felt as nervous as I did. Jes was right by my side and keeping me calm as I watched the final competitors, like Paul & Ty, climb. I wasn’t sure still if I got first place and no one was giving any information out. Once all climbers finished the production crew had the podiums up in a blink of an eye and I was being pushed into the first place spot with fellow female competitor Angie Payne. I really felt overwhelmed, speechless and just plain psyched. This is the first adult pro competition I have won. Sick. I can’t wait until the next UBC Pro Tour comp!!!

Jon Dory (Dad) reason for my climbing and my biggest fan!

Jes D’Emilio my fiancé for believing in me and loving me so much!

Lisa Dory (Mom) for always telling me I’m on the right path and my other biggest fan!

Friends and competitors: I just wanted to say thank you for making me feel so relaxed and among friends during and after the competition. It’s always a great joy to hang out with, and climb with such great people.

 

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