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Australia, On The Beach and Cherry Picking - Ian Dory

 
Australia, On The Beach and Cherry Picking - Ian Dory
Australia, On The Beach and Cherry Picking - Ian Dory
 
September 21, 2011 - 
 

On the Beach, 3rd day on, ouch. This boulder is one of the first we all looked at in the Grampians and our jaws dropped when we found out this perfect boulder problem was still a project. Located at trackside and was known as the project boulder, it is placed in a stunning location of the Grampians with the Taipan wall towering over and the view of most of the mountain.

 

After a couple visits Dave sent, FA. The climb itself is super unique because there are 2 possible sequences for sending. Both Dave & Nalle sent the problems with two complete different styles and beta. Today was my 3rd day working it. To me, its been more of a challenge executing this problem. I have gotten to the last move 3 times and lost it because I didn’t readjust my knee bar correctly. It's hands down one of my favorite line in the Grampians.  Today was a bit discouraging, the crew woke up early, all super motivated but, the temperatures however were less then great. I kept greasing and popping off every other hold. I am definitely psyched to accomplish this line and am praying for some artic winds to start blowing.

The following day I decided to return with Nate, Dave, Nalle & Jes.  The conditions seemed perfect and what was feeling like god-awful slimy holds was now sticky. On my first try I was able to take down On The Beach. First try Friday! The friction was perfect and I was beyond psyched to top out this amazing boulder.

Cherry Picking AKA Death Star is located in Buandik (South Part of the Grampians.) It’s in the new bouldering area we have discovered, right around the bend from the Gallery. You will find enormous boulders one of witch is perched perfectly on a cliff. With a now (after we gave it some TLC) amazing comfortable landing. The boulder is beautifully graphed with many orange colors and a sweet blend of sandstone that looks like granite. This line is by far the most amazing boulder in Buandik. The background  has  mountains of undeveloped boulders full of potential and a sick waterfall that gives the area a surreal feel. This has been one of the more difficult boulders we have found in Buandik. We gave it an 8b grade. The line is technically demanding with difficult reaches and specific foot placement. The name originated from the last move of the climb which involves a dynamic foot swing that we call “the Moon kick.” It’s a must do line when coming to Australia, for sure.

 

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