Well, first off id like to apologize for the tardiness on this post, I've been trying to catch up on school, with my immense amount of makeup work. the best part was, whilst i was working straight from 3:30 till 10 purely on makeup work, i got behind on the assignments that were getting assigned for that night. i think slash hope that now I'm on schedule with everyone else!
2011 Youth World Championchips Austria - Kyle Francis
So US team coach, Stan Borodyansky, and i traveled to Munich, Germany on the 19th, then arriving the 20th. the Jetlag was definitely awesome, getting there at midnight Dallas time, but like 8 am Munich time. we both got to our hostel and passed out, waking up only to go eat. that night we went to bed around 8:30, then got twelve hours of sleep. the next day we decided to walk the entire touring map, walking close to 15 miles. Munich is a really cool place! that night we were entertained by German Family Guy. The next day we waited for other five ten athlete Andrew Kim to drive to Imst Austria for the comp. Andrew is really funny, and with Stan, I was laughing for a good portion of my time there.
We had a US team practice two days before qualifiers which was awesome, the gym was the old worlds gym. the routes needed some getting used to, European setting is different than in the states. instead of jugs to v8, its constant v4, so my power endurance that I had been building was definitely kicking in now!
I went into Qualy one really psyched, I was running number one so I got there really early to look out my route and what not. what I found out as i was going to watch preview then climb right after was, that they had changed the signs from when i had looked out my route earlier. that was a pleasant surprise..... I got on my route and was caught off guard. the moves were big, vertical, awkward, and the holds were wet. I climbed really well given the circumstances, staying in the moment and taking the wet holds in as if they were going to be wet for everyone, and that's how they set it. after day one I was 35th, and ready to improve the next day.
Qualy two I was 45th in the running order. during warmup i didnt feel as good as i did the previous day, but at least i knew what route I was climbing. i got on my second route and was in the zone. my mindset was simply that I wasn't coming off the wall, and i wasn't going to get pumped. I got to a section where the other Americans had looked pumped and struggled and fell. i wasn't pumped set my foot, and just fell. I wasn't ready for the increase of hard move. i didn't turn it on despite still full in the tank. that day I think I could have place top 8. I was no where near the cut off for semis and was really disappointed. I still had speed that night though.
There were around 40 kids competing and semis is top 16 where they then do a bracket style with one vs 16 2 v 15 and so on. my first run was a safe run and after everyone went I was 16th. I knew I needed to go faster and just give it everything I had to try and jump up places so i don't run against the number 1 guy. unfortunately I slipped at the top and then all the scoreboards said I was 17th and someone had beaten me during run 2. I was really sad cause i knew I could've done better. that night during our team meeting though, official results were posted and the guy who had got in the top 16, knocking me out, scratch with two false stars and was disqualified, so i was in! probably the best news all weekend.
Speed semis were Sunday and I was psyched out of my mind. basically, i needed a perfect run and the Russian needed to slip. Brendan Mitchell was in the same spot i was in and the Russian he was racing slipped and he was about to win when he slipped. though sad for him it only motivated me. then when it as my turn what happened, instead of what i wanted, was the opposite, he had a perfect run, set a category record, and I had a decent run.
Even though i had a sub par performance, I was really excited to get a full year of climbing instead of the super lucky year i had this year. Austria was so beautiful and i was really glad i went, it was a lot of fun! I'm now home,caught up, and climbing again. Summit climbing gym in Grapevine has an adult competition they have three times where you can win money, and its a red point style comp. its so much fun! last night was the first of the series where i tied for second with two other kids to Brian Anthunueise. they got the scores right around 11:15 and i had to be home by midnight so instead of a climb off, us three just split it and got $50 each. i have full intentions of doing adult bouldering this year for the first time, and I'm really excited to compete this year! for photos, just friend me on Facebook and check out my photos!