I write this sitting in a bar terrace with sea views from Menorca and Mallorca looking south from the island, the Cap d'Artruix has become our home these two weeks. And contracture I have in the trapezius on the right side two days ago I hard I can do much, so in solitude while enjoying the Laiathroes of summer, I review my days on the island of Nura.
Menorca Summer 2011 (Apnea 8b+, boulder, Art with rocks)
Menorca is our little love, our retirement in our memories, here we have family and friends of thosevisits when you can, you can spend a year or maybe four or five. Here the emotions and the timetaken another dimension, I do not know the why? But I know it well.
Whenever we can we run away and we always end up discovering that corner did not know, I always come back with renewed spirit and more human, I do not know the why? What we do know is that one day we were already packed suitcases and a ticket purchased on the verge of coming to live on the island, for that reason has something that makes you forget trivial problems, learn to be happy.
Here you always find a stone and texture did not know, hence the camera is loaded with inspirationalmacros that over the coming years I will serve as inspiration for my work.
As usual on our trips to the island, can not miss or the crash-pad or rope, I left real gems here and climbing develops differently if more is not where they are located under the rocks and walls and is wonderful, and loneliness is evident day after day.
I have spent different periods of fanaticism, and all have lived as hard as I could, by the degree of obsession, the obsession of the block, the obsession with openness, etc, etc, but I live a few years ago climbing in a different way more intensely than at the beginning, looking to loop the loop and seeking personal fulfillment with the activity of the moment, more for style than the activity itself, although the latter is always a purpose too.
The good form which I have managed to reach plant again made me difficult challenges, not just men live Water Ses Illes, my workouts are very anarchic, as well as the disciplines that I can get done, but that is My motivation in seeking the versatility, so after losing 14 kg of pure power block and float and feel, it's back to raise the bar staff. My purpose of travel, which could escalate and combine it with more days of relaxation climbing, so I had to try to minimize the efforts and rationed good, Sector Jamaica (from Cavalleria) which did not yet know, was a good place to devote efforts, eight are the routes to the sector from 6c (1) to 8b + and a project that goes directly to the meeting deBlanca snow and 7 addicts, and the goal was to leave the tape in place fifteen days in sector to finalize its tracks, especially the way Apnea 8b +, a road that cuts through a plate slightly slumped in the far right of the right sector and deTropezones 7b +.
The first day after making over 35% of the roads sector in sight, I decided montarApnea 8b +, taking advantage of low neighboring Trips 7b +, and recalling the words of Kalvin, "Pelele, I think the best way to test the route be top-down "and thus remembering the instructions of my friend in the distance and deciphering the puzzle of strength / endurance waiting for me and thinking that the road was easier than I initially expected, until arriving at the fourth sheet to the ground and see it's a hell oflateral movements on small prey but open on the movement of clamp block, but I know if I meet the entrance and the fourth chapo, just need to tighten the chain (single, naive of me).
There are ribbons hanging in the void, while the humidity and the wind hit the next two days. Back again with Laia sector, this time without our dog Güllich the moment lacks the ability to scale anddown climbing to get trackside. The first sensations on the tracks are horrible, everything haschanged, moving parabolt the parabolt oxidized, I make bad invested and slide, has become a hell, humidity, sweltering heat, "shit! !, I will not do !!!!", all qualified and ready for decision, but I doubtwhether I can make it, I decide to remove the tapes but insists that Laia leave me, I can always return to them, "and if it rains and whether, and if, what if, "only this way and I have a short project and aroad called Meteora 8a + that faileth leaving for another visit.
All the way back to the car to the road's far, while the sun hits us squarely on our heads, I keepthinking about the passage of small and invested Resume is random, there is a foot that is trustedand trick , Laia walk away behind me, I go through this lunar landscape, go up and down rocks, such as going up and down my head, sharp as razors, imagine forms in its rocks and skewer me with largethorns that abound in the waves the Far de Cavalleria, "I return or not return? I wonder again and again, I have many days, "today is the second day climb, I have broken skin, open and painful ....
We continue to enjoy the island, and as always surprises us again, a visit to the cove of La Vallmakes stop in Boulder 21 problems to spend a morning doing in Boulder Creek with turquoise waterand the blocks in the shade. While my head does not stop thinking about Apnea, Joan brings me one afternoon Llucalari, a place where the possibilities of opening are crazy and the tone are short routes, the opposite of what I've been doing a few days ago, and yet and spent a good afternoon, I remember coming here nine years ago but not to scale, here is loneliness, not a soul at the end of the ravine where the creek begins a roll of the sea that accompanies us throughout the afternoon. I turnto march with broken fingers and a fatigue that lasts for days yet before me is the motivation that my sore skin. He told Joan that the way I see hell and one of these days I have wanted to get to knowFerreries blocks, there is another day in the air to make a visit to this tiny area of the block.
A different and creative morning, time to work, so nine years and going back in time, where did the first work Binimel.la served to the first photo thePsyco, I create on the beach Binigaus an ephemeral work, consists of seven main pillars in a circle and 365 stones, one for each day of the year, manyhours of reflection, working on balance and looking for the most difficult and impossible tounderstand what is beginning to fail, "an upright, you have to rotate it and I can reach the smallinvestment in tonnage "are spending hours and the work takes shape, there are times when this seems to have done but something is missing, now, all is harmony. People comes and goes, some people stop to contemplate the work, some Italians 60 years, we talked, "Dolomites, phytase, ahhhh!Yes, precious, "thanks. A girl and her mother, with Loctite?, No, just a lot of patience and balance. A couple who live there, give thanks for these sculptures, "is a feast for the senses." We left, I hate toleave her there, I look back on several occasions, is ephemeral, not last much longer, the wind, the storm at sea, bad weather, will take another form and has just returned to its original state. Only these snapshots stay to remember.
One more chance, turn Apnea, this battle can not be so deJoan motivation, encouragement of Gelu, Met and company through Facebook, Laia and those who always leave you that comment, provide an extra dose of motivation.
Hot on Trips 7b +, and reassemble the track, brushed back a little magnesium and the day has changed, is gray, cloudy, and the conditions are good. A first touchdown and made me resolve that I had unfinished Crux, balance, rotate the foot, "if the ground!" Now it's go for it, but the nerves and the bill pass rush me and make me jump a key prey that leaves me lying on nothing. A short break, a moment to close your eyes and see the sequence from hard and I am plating the meeting, so begins the ritual, magnesium and running by the first four plates, not worth stopping to take magnesium, there is no time have to go fast, the street name perfectly defines the state in which scales the same, a little embarrassed to do the small dynamic Resume together for you the top right, and I can take magnesium with your left hand The spat has already invested me several times, opening his left foot a little bike and I take the in-extremis invested him with the right investment in the other small but frankly, I go down to grip and turn in the mini strip I wake up and biceps, I get a shout from the stomach and pulled his left hand to the small tridedo cutting, no lame explain what has been a blink of an eye and thinking it does not get it, I get a " Rope! "as if it were me in this expression of life, and good shot to right plated well below the belt, I decide plated, the route is almost done just need to hang on and not fool along tapes remaining, the beats drop, all the intensity that I drag loses strength, I have escalated very mechanical, just a long pass, but I know there will not fall, I plating and smiling, I feel happy, chapo chain Apnea 8b + , had long since I felt so absorbed in a way these features, just need to find the time, there is accumulating tracks or blocks of difficulty, if not feelings, how are you to teach you to know.
A few hours later with Joan would go to Boulder Ferreries sector, a good climax to what gave him theday. The Boulder Ferreries sector in a strip Rodeno reminiscent Sector Albarracin ceilings, this isbelow the Ferreries chapel, from which we hear the din of horses Ferreries parties and where the white houses and uniforms people take a magical every time we got to the top of a block.
Afternoon very big fan of running one block at a very strong feeling resolving many problems in sight or flash, cruises 12 moves on rooftops, explosive blocks giving everything to the limit, it was as if thestrength and motivation were perpetual ...
The other days we have to relax for a forced way, I guess the effort has led to the contraction of the trapezius ...
We will not tire of returning to the island of Nura, meeting new people and new textures of rocks, stones and walls.
Menorca is a place where it sometimes seems that the time had stopped were it not for luxury andostentation that sometimes tries to create, but here lies the hidden charm of Menorca, where twolarge reserves and everyone is free choose the one that suits you and fits your character.
"Menorca, Biosphere Reserve or Menorca, subject to the wallet."
Menorca Agosto de 2011