Over the Fourth of July weekend a crew of Chicago climbers and I headed up to Lion’s Head, Canada. Lion’s Head is located on Lake Huron just north of Toronto. These limestone bluffs overlook the beautiful Lake Huron, and some of the climbs are directly over the water, making for a refreshing spray.
Lion's Head, Canada - Greg Padovani
Historically this crag is a summer destination as there are very moderate temps of 70 during the summer months – much better than heading to the Red. Until recently many of the belays were hanging belays, as we would have to lower in from top and climb out, but recently there has been a lot of new bolting of many routes to the ground.
Most of the routes that my crew was getting on were long, and thank goodness we all had 70s. This was only my second time to Lion’s Head so I was psyched to anything and everything, but we only had a short weekend to get some work done. One climb that went down was Drunken Master 13a, which was quite endeavor as the route was long and had many scary clips were falls took one into trees. This route was both heady and physical with a technical upper section that made sure that you were still paying attention.
Another route that I was really psyched on was Maxi Paxi 13c – which is honestly one of the hardest 13c s that I have ever been on. This route had Rifle like movements, while also had a committing and burly crux that spit me off countless times. Unfortunately, we were short on time and this project will have to wait until next time.
Overall, this was a great summer trip that included great climbing and even better company. The town of Lion’s Head is also very warm and friendly as most Canadians are.
Until next time.