Since the bouldering season ended and the temperature was rising higher and higher, it was definitely time to change climbing goals. After a long and very demanding time my body and my mind told me to let myself go and shift down a gear. It was not easy for me to realize that I need something like a rest after a quite successful spring and not using the sledgehammer!
So I focused on first ascents and doing a bit of route climbing. The big and pure boulders are not obvious in the Frankenjura, therefore it needs some effort and also a lot of experience to see the good and possible lines. However, I walked so much kilometers and I chopped my way through the undergrowth it was due to the lack of the ability to see the “lines” quickly, I nearly turned my back on “Burg Saburac”. Thank god that I went there again at a friend’s advice. Burg Saburac is without overstating it one of the best pieces of rock in this area. Not even the climb itself but also the setting of the boulder is phenomenal. The result is one direct problem with a obvious start and one extension to it. Both boulders have the same crux sequence. After a cross move into a sharp pocket you have to do a big move to a slope. When you hit the slope, it´s hard to get your right foot on a high hook behind the hand. If the hook lies good, the next two moves shouldn´t be that hard, despite the holds a very small. I think the direct start could be a 8A and the extension maybe 8A+. We´ll see.
Another great climb I was keen to try since the crux hold has been broken, was “Schicht im Schacht”. Only one person reclimbed it since then. A very sharp little edge was replace with a perfect slopy crimp. When you stick the hold, it´s hard to move feet around and doing a dynamic move to a positive crimp. One of the best sequences was born! The boulder was graded 8A and I think now it´s definitely a huge difference. It must be 8A+ and one of the best, too!
There´re only a few weeks left until I am off to South Africa. So let´s relax a bit and get ready for the amazing boulders in SA.