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March/April 2011 - Karin Magog

March/April 2011 - Karin Magog
May 12, 2011 -  Karin Magog    

I've had a very frustrating two months if I'm honest. The problem with my heel took longer to resolve than I thought it would and with my finger still giving me problems I was restricted to some weights, core work and swimming for a few weeks. By mid March I was able to get my old comfy trad shoes on, just in time for the last round of the Climb Newcastle bouldering comps.


Considering I hadn't bouldered for 2 months or climbed for 1, I felt like I was doing okay but then my foot popped as I was matching a particularly nasty finishing hold and I knew straight away that I'd done something to my shoulder. I stopped climbing there and then and Steve had to drive home. The next day I could barely move my arm but it did gradually loosen up. After 3 weeks it was still sore with limited movement so I went to see a physio for some advice. He did some work to move it back into position and said it would probably take about 6 weeks in total for the ligaments to tighten again. However, he did suggest I start climbing again but to take it steady.

After a few wall sessions I headed down to Malham with Steve. I managed to second Yosemite Wall F7a+ OK, so decided to have a look at Tremelo F7c. I'd been saving this route but decided it would be a worthwhile project for my rehab. However, after a couple of runs up it on a top-rope I decided to go for the red-pt which went well. It was good to see I still had some endurance. Since then I've been slowly increasing my time on the rock and am now up to 3 days a week. My heel is okay so I can get out running again which is a relief and my finger is under control. Pull-ups and fingerboard sessions are still a bit risky and I'm hesitant about popping for holds with my right arm in case I catch them straight-armed. My deep lock and tricep press are coming back and I'm starting to feel pretty fit again. It's been a shame not to have been able to make the most of the good weather but I know I'm fortunate to be climbing again. I'm now very keen to get some harder routes under my belt.


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