Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

March/April 2011 - Karin Magog

 
March/April 2011 - Karin Magog
 
May 12, 2011 -  Karin Magog    
 

I've had a very frustrating two months if I'm honest. The problem with my heel took longer to resolve than I thought it would and with my finger still giving me problems I was restricted to some weights, core work and swimming for a few weeks. By mid March I was able to get my old comfy trad shoes on, just in time for the last round of the Climb Newcastle bouldering comps.

 

Considering I hadn't bouldered for 2 months or climbed for 1, I felt like I was doing okay but then my foot popped as I was matching a particularly nasty finishing hold and I knew straight away that I'd done something to my shoulder. I stopped climbing there and then and Steve had to drive home. The next day I could barely move my arm but it did gradually loosen up. After 3 weeks it was still sore with limited movement so I went to see a physio for some advice. He did some work to move it back into position and said it would probably take about 6 weeks in total for the ligaments to tighten again. However, he did suggest I start climbing again but to take it steady.

After a few wall sessions I headed down to Malham with Steve. I managed to second Yosemite Wall F7a+ OK, so decided to have a look at Tremelo F7c. I'd been saving this route but decided it would be a worthwhile project for my rehab. However, after a couple of runs up it on a top-rope I decided to go for the red-pt which went well. It was good to see I still had some endurance. Since then I've been slowly increasing my time on the rock and am now up to 3 days a week. My heel is okay so I can get out running again which is a relief and my finger is under control. Pull-ups and fingerboard sessions are still a bit risky and I'm hesitant about popping for holds with my right arm in case I catch them straight-armed. My deep lock and tricep press are coming back and I'm starting to feel pretty fit again. It's been a shame not to have been able to make the most of the good weather but I know I'm fortunate to be climbing again. I'm now very keen to get some harder routes under my belt.

 

Popular Stories

3Q's for Young Gun Winner Grace McKeehan
Josh Levin
03-10-2015 - 
The Young Gun Award was created to recognize up-and-coming climbers who truly represent...