I was supposed to be in Alaska for some heliskiing and photography but unfortunately the worst drought since 30 years led to a massive lack of snow and so my friends and me decided to postpone this trip to 2012. Within minutes my focus switched again from deep powder runs to bouldering. I immediately found myself back in the gym training my ass off and trying to get in shape for the long awaited Easter holidays. After a nasty sinusitis and a week of Antibiotics I only had one and a half weeks left to transform those weak finger tendons into steel cables and get them ready for some action in Magic Wood / Switzerland.
The main goal for this short trip was to take revenge on the "The Riverbed" / V13 that threw me off at the very very end about a year ago. Since then I didn't get another chance to try it, so psyche was high to finally get this ultra-classic done. I quickly figured out all the moves again and had a couple of reasonable attempts on this 25-move power endurance beauty, unfortunately I didn't come super close to sending it on any of my attempts the first day and I decided to save some skin and power for the second day, I then turned my attention to a nice BBQ and beer next to a warming campfire.
I started the next day with a flash of "Small Jack" / V9, a perfect semi-highball with some of the nicest holds you will find in Magic Wood. If you're capable to climb this grade and got a few pads at your disposal make sure to get on this thing. Motivation was high to get back on "The Riverbed". I cruised through the roof and quickly found myself climbing around the corner towards the jugs where I had previously punted. However, once again I was really pumped and fell off at the very end going to a big crimp one could almost call a jug. This was the same move I fell off 2 years before and I was very pissed to drop the 25th move again. I decided to rest for 20 minutes and give it one more go. This time I kept it together, stuck that final move and somehow managed to drag my tired body up that exiting slab to sign into summit log book. It's safe to say I'm not in route climbing shape right now. :)