Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

A quicky in Magic Wood - The Riverbed - Tobias Haller

 
A quicky in Magic Wood - The Riverbed - Tobias Haller
A quicky in Magic Wood - The Riverbed - Tobias Haller
 
May 10, 2011 -  Tobias Haller    
 

I was supposed to be in Alaska for some heliskiing and photography but unfortunately the worst drought since 30 years led to a massive lack of snow and so my friends and me decided to postpone this trip to 2012. Within minutes my focus switched again from deep powder runs to bouldering. I immediately found myself back in the gym training my ass off and trying to get in shape for the long awaited Easter holidays. After a nasty sinusitis and a week of Antibiotics I only had one and a half weeks left to transform those weak finger tendons into steel cables and get them ready for some action in Magic Wood / Switzerland.

 

The main goal for this short trip was to take revenge on the "The Riverbed" / V13 that threw me off at the very very end about a year ago. Since then I didn't get another chance to try it, so psyche was high to finally get this ultra-classic done. I quickly figured out all the moves again and had a couple of reasonable attempts on this 25-move power endurance beauty, unfortunately I didn't come super close to sending it on any of my attempts the first day and I decided to save some skin and power for the second day, I then turned my attention to a nice BBQ and beer next to a warming campfire.

I started the next day with a flash of "Small Jack" / V9, a perfect semi-highball with some of the nicest holds you will find in Magic Wood. If you're capable to climb this grade and got a few pads at your disposal make sure to get on this thing. Motivation was high to get back on "The Riverbed". I cruised through the roof and quickly found myself climbing around the corner towards the jugs where I had previously punted. However, once again I was really pumped and fell off at the very end going to a big crimp one could almost call a jug. This was the same move I fell off 2 years before and I was very pissed to drop the 25th move again. I decided to rest for 20 minutes and give it one more go. This time I kept it together, stuck that final move and somehow managed to drag my tired body up that exiting slab to sign into summit log book. It's safe to say I'm not in route climbing shape right now. :)

http://vimeo.com/23489816

 

Popular Stories

SCS Nationals – Its Not Over Until its Over - Matt Grossman
07-25-2014 - 
It was day 3 and I was on the wall in semi-finals at...
No Words To Describe South Africa - Nina Williams
Nina Williams
07-29-2014 - 
A couple of weeks ago, laying in my cottage at Traveler's Rest, I...
Tough Weekend in High Altitude - Jean-Baptiste Bazzarini
Five Ten
07-28-2014 - 
That's a wrap here at the EWS in Winterpark, CO. 10,000ft of altitude,...
Recalibration - Markus Eder
Markus Eder
08-01-2014 - 
I didn’t know what to expect from a deep water soloing trip to...