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All My Eggs In One Basket - Steve Mcclure

 
All My Eggs In One Basket - Steve Mcclure
 
April 25, 2011 - 
 

Happy Easter. This might be a time of the year that you celebrate, or a weekend the same as any other. For me there is little difference, in fact a period to avoid being away with the crowds. But I notice it by the amount of chocolate eggs that seem to come my way, not that I’m complaining! This year was a very happy Easter for many as the sun shone. Just a few years ago it was snowing at Easter! The sun is great, but not for hard climbing.

 

It seems traditionally I seem to end up at Malham Cove at Easter, a few day visits over the holiday period. I can remember battling with the cold and wet, and also sitting out the whole day waiting for an attempt on Overshadow as the cliff baked in the sun. Frustrating! This year I didn’t even go, way too hot for sure, but I’ve been there a few times recently.

Actually I’ve not posted much on the old blog for a while. There is little to say. I watch as others tick headline routes in Pembroke or Spain but for the time being I seem to have thrown all my eggs into one basket. I’m on a new line at Malham, something I began last year but was kicked off through an early summer arrival and a busted finger. I’m back again. But its gonna be desperate. It’s a variation on Rainshadow, climbing the classic 8a Raindogs, then the crux bulge of Rainshadow to where it goes left and eases off. This new line blasts straight up, and it definitely doesn’t ease off, in fact it gets harder. After three days last year I still couldn’t do some of the moves on the new section of climbing. These moves were a long way up, after absolutely no rest where fatigue will be maxed out. I’ve done 8c+ in less time than this!

But this is good news, it looks like a solid relationship, not a quick fling, over in a flash, unmemorable and without meaning. The forth day this year was a good one, with a link from the ground to within 10 hand movements before I join Bat Route (8c), though from there its still 8a to the top with no rest. But that’s not close really. From the top of Raindogs its about 30 moves where its barely possible to chalk up, never mind clip. I’m gonna have to skip 4 quickdraws out of 6 and face some serious air time! So 10 moves out of 30 is actually quite far away. But it’s become a reality now, though helped by fantastic conditions before the heat set in.

For now I just need to wait, this is England so it won’t stay hot for too long. But I best get involved with those eggs before they melt, it’s good energy food right???

 

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