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Revenge is sweet for Fabian Christof

 
Revenge is sweet for Fabian Christof
Revenge is sweet for Fabian Christof
Revenge is sweet for Fabian Christof
 
April 14, 2011 -  Fabian Christof    
 

One year ago, I had a not-so-nice experience with Montecore 8C. While getting stronger and as the moves began to flow I hurt my right index, so the dream of repeating this amazing crimpy problem was over, at least for 2010. Now it was quite unexpected that I found myself in front of Montecore! After nearly everything was wet in the Frankenjura for the last two weeks, Montecore would has been the last problem I thought about but fortunately, a mate told me that the conditions are actually quite good, therefore I went there just to say hallo to my old fellow. I touched the rock with awe and started to climb with the intention to stop immediately when I feel a little ache at my fingers. This time there was no pain!

 

Let me say something about its characteristic: A few easier moves (around 7BFb) leading into the Alphaman where you have to make this nasty heel and toe hook combination on quite small and painful crimps. Check out the video here. After this rough treatment for the fingers, you “only” have to solve the “Omega Man” until one arrives at the last move. This move can be a true heartbreaker! The holds are better than before but the footholds are small and the reach between the holds is big. It requires doing a very dynamic move at a wasted status and trying to give at least 100%. The luck was on my side and I made no mistake at the final part.

After three days of trying this year, everything was perfect and I succeeded. When I look back on all the days I spent there, since I did the standing start (Omega Man) and the Alphaman, then I must say Montecore was clearly harder!

I don´t know if it´s 8C but in my opinion it´s definitely one grade harder than New Base Line, thus i´ll confirm the 8C which was given by Markus.

Cheers

Fabi

 

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