Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Zoo York, Caley

 
Zoo York, Caley
 
April 04, 2011 -  Ned Feehally    
 

The amazing Zoo York at Caley

 

“Eer yeah, its well flashable” people kept saying. Yes it is if you’re a massively strong and talented Swiss man called Jvan Tresch. No one else has.

It is every bit as good as people say. A nice line, good moves, sustained climbing etc. and unlike the usual gritstone wideness it involves positive holds and pulling down, not my scene at all, but I decided I had better man up and have a proper go.

I pulled on with visions if Jvan crushing it. The first few moves flowed perfectly, I was grabbing the holds just right and floating between them (eer, kind of). Suddenly it all felt wrong. However much i wriggled about I just couldn’t get into the right body position for the crux stab to a crimp. I went for it anyway, just missing it and firing off.

Dammit! Normally after falling on the flash the pressure is off, but now it was on! I was determined not to fall off it again. I pulled on, feeling much warmer and much more in control. I grabbed the crimp perfectly this time and sucked it up for the cut loose. Yesss. Feet back on, get it together for the “easy” top. Fortunately I had some capable spotters (8B/8C) on hand to tell me the way, and just about enough in the tank to finish it off.

So, apparently I am not a massively strong and talented Swiss man and I failed to flash it. Oh well. Shaggy told me I should have savoured it and enjoyed the process. Good point, there aren’t that many problems of this quality in Britain. Sadly this means next time I’m at Caley I have to have round 2 on High Fidelity. It is nails!

 

Popular Stories

The life of a Working Athlete: Juggling Climbing, Work, Training, Overtraining, Rest and Life. - Melissa Strong
Melissa Strong
08-11-2014 - 
Like many others out there we are the working bees in the climbing/life...
Donner Summit's King Line - Urs Moosmuller
Urs Moosmuller
08-11-2014 - 
Father’s Day is the hardest established route in Donner Summit and one of...
Cascade Idaho 2014 - Nic Rummel
Nic Rummel
08-10-2014 - 
I had such a great summer developing a climbing area near Cascade, Idaho....
July 2014: Outdoor Climbing Adventures
Will Roderick
08-05-2014 - 
We had left for Shuteye Ridge, near Yosemite, at 4 in the afternoon...