The last few months have been full of motivation to work and to purchase a new set of wheels, I'm talking a home on wheels. From remodeling cabins, being a motor home mechanic, and working on a guidebook for Joe's Valley, to teaching climbing clinics and presentations. I've had my hands full of tasks away from climbing. Although carpentry is a good steady form of income, the intensive labor on my back slowly takes its toll on my climbing, fortunately I've had other opportunities like teaching and lecturing about climbing. I had a huge turnout at the local college with over 100 students jotting down every word I made, pretty good for only a 1 day notice prior to this lecture. With savings put away, I made a quick snag of a killer deal on a motor home. After rebuilding the carburetor, installing new spark plug wires and distributor cap, new brakes, new water pump and thermostat, resealing the roof and lots of interior decorating, it was finally time to put the beast on the pavement.
Me and my lovely girlfriend Laura have been living in the desert now for 3 months. The weather has been a bit shifty, but its all worked out to in the end. When it rains I've been slaving away on the computer designing and writing for the new up and coming guidebook to Joe's Valley, Utah, which is now off to the printers and should be available in a few weeks. When the weather is good, we spend most of our time developing brilliant new lines as well as doing mileage burns on the good old classics. We started in Joe's Valley, where I polished off an outstanding new highball with a sh*t landing dubbing it Monarch.
Then we departed of to the sunnier temps of Saint George where a different variety of new and old problems awaited us. Moe's Valley! An old stomping ground of exciting quality sandstone. For the both of us, it was only a matter of time until we set our goals and slowly started ticking away at the list. I climbed 4 new classic first ascents. Up 8a+, Flash Flood 8a, La Bocca Della Verita 8a, and Rex Arete sit 7c+. Laura made quick work on her first 7a Device Ignitor, as well as sending up a storm on all her old projects from last year.
My most recent project is an inspiring line for both beauty and difficulty. Consisting of seven solid 8a moves to a single 8b move at the end, leaving this new project a contender for the hardest boulder problem in southern Utah. I've fallen numerous times holding the crux swing move at the end. Unfortunately "time" is not my friend, for it has brought its bastard friend "heat" along with it, schteepp!! Regardless, I remain hope-full for another cold front, so I can put this one in the satchel and bring it home to my mom.
On top of all the development of new sandstone, we have made a huge discovery of amazing granite? Yes, that's right, GRANITE! One of the most inspiring new finds of Utah bouldering. Tucked away in a beautiful pristine canyon with the meditative splash of a fresh water river, lies a massive overhanging granite block. So far, only two moderate lines have been completed, but I have had my eyes set on two specific mega projects awaiting an ascent. Perfect landings, with obvious, clean, sit starts along with an array of features to tickle my fancy. This is the birth of a new bouldering haven. A bit higher elevation has made it the next spot of interest due to the consistent wind and shady nature of this canyon. Which in soon time will lead to a masterful new addition of boulder problems in Utah.