Finally, the trip to Switzerland is over and I arrived at home one week ago. Overall, it was a great trip! The weather has been perfect and we had only one single rainy day during three weeks.
After I found myself on the top of The Dagger on my first climbing day of the trip, two main goals (Vecchio Leone and General Disarray) left. The difference to Dagger was that I knew, both of them felt hard to me and it was more than unsure to realize one of them! With Dagger I was quite sure it's just a matter of time until I built up the power endurance for a successful ascent. After a few days of work, I made progresses on both problems and they were within my reach. Somehow, I was not able to get the last bit of power or self-confidence to make it to the top. At this moment, it was a bit frustrating for me but now I recognize how close I came to do them. Therefore, I had good improvements on boulders that seems nearly impossible to me a half year ago. That means I did something right during the winter months!
Of course I didn't think like that during the trip! I was a bit unmotivated and searched for a new challenge. Staying in Ticino gives also the possibility to drive to Magic Wood for an one day visit! Let´s go there and prepare some boulders for the upcoming season! Years ago, I spent a few days figuring out the sequences of New Baseline. For me it´s one of the best climbs I ever had the pleasure to move on and it fits my climbing abilities quite well. That means the character is more crimpy, not that steep and without big moves. From the beginning of trying, I felt quite comfortable on New Baseline and I was able to do it directly with one rest. I decided to stop for that day and having a rest day on the next day. Recovered and motivated I drove to Magic Wood again. The weather was great, maybe a bit too cold that made the conditions not perfect. The first part (the crack part) felt slippery and it was essential for me to get into the second part (the crimping part) fast and fresh. Anyhow, I fought my way two times through the crack and came close to the last hard move where you hit a good edge. Although it´s obvious not dangerous I was scared and instead of giving everything I have I put my foot down. Damn!! So close! After the last try, I stopped for the day and decided again to make two rest days and have another go at the last day of the trip on our way home. Two days later, (same place same time) the conditions were perfect. A breeze came from the mountain and the temperature has been perfect! After I didn´t stuck the first move because of feeling a bit nervous everything worked perfect and I came to the point I put my foot down. This time I had a spot and there was nothing to think about! I stuck the hold and gave everything I had to finish the problem.
That was a great gift I made to myself and there wasn´t a better ending for my trip to Switzerland. I hope that things go on that good, without injuries and bad weather!
Greets from Frankenjura (soaked and grey)