Wouah! I just came back from a 12 days trip to Thaïland! Besides seeing lots of buddhas and riding an elephant, I went there with my girlfriend Camille to climb. So we arrived in Tonsaï for a 7-day stay (quite short, I was so impatient the first 4 days to be on that beach, being so close to it... But girlfriend and tourism are inseparable=)).
So we arrived on Tonsai and the place is just magical! It is like a small bay with cliffs everywhere and jungle around it... People are chill and nice, and you eat like a king for nothing! I wouldn't say it's one of the best rock I have ever climbed. I have done some amazing soft routes with holds everywhere, but the hard routes are concentrated on the beach, on a quite small cliff (not that high, not that large). But the surrounding is so extraordinary, and the move so varied that you have got to love the climbing.
So we arrived in the afternoon, and I was so excited that I haven't sleep very well that night... I was a bit anxious too, because my girlfriend had been climbing for only a month then, and was suppose to belay my for the trip. Plus I was back from an injury of three months (pinky finger... shits happens ;)). But short routes are quite my style and the week went quite smoothly.
I did on second go Old Chicken Makes Good Soup a nice route on crimp in an overhanging wall (one of the first on the beach). I fell on sight in the crux and was quite happy of my strength after the pause... (8a+ guide book, but lots think it is rather 8a and I can't disagree) Like climbing in the heat, that so much less worries than in "good" weather condition, even if you sweat like hell!
Then I worked a bit Cara Cangreso (8b), and sent it on the 7th try. I did all the lower section static (big cross to a small crimp that require some body tension... Incredible move, loved it!), but someone told me that you may also do a dyno... Quite my style even if my finger's skin was a little too thin for the tuffas :). I have to make a special thanks to "Al" a Californian that gave me some of his White monkey holding peach Balm (like Tiger Balm) to rub my forearms, because I sent Cara Cangreso after it, and Cream of Tom Yum flash directly after (said 8a+, I would rather go for 8a).
So after these routes, I was attracted to the line of Jay Dum (8b), the longer and more vertical route. Again, I fell two times at the last move, nose under the top quickdraw... Mental fight to final send it on my 6th try. On that evening I also sent Tantrum (8a+) on second go THE classic line of the beach! Such a fight on the big slopper, thank's to the russian guy screaming me tips from the bottom!
And that was it for climbing, 5 climbing days and 5 beautiful routes, what else are we looking for? :) Did some snorkling with Tim (a nice german guy) and recommend it for your rest day!
I finally moved back to Switzerland to my job and studies with my head full of great memories and my fingers asking for more! Definitely a place to visit sometime!