I was pretty bummed because without that third bonus hold I knew I probably wasn’t going to make finals. I then get a text from my buddy and fellow 5.10 athlete Josh Levin who crushed in the comp by the way, that I had made it!?! At first I thought he was just messing with me, so I text him back, “Are you serious??”. He then calls me and confirms that I did indeed make into Finals!!!!!!!! I just went crazy, running all around Spicy Pickle, the restaurant that I was eating at, not being able to contain my excitement!!! Haha. I then went back to my hotel and took a very nice nap before heading over to the wall for finals. They ran finals in a world cup format style. In the world cup format style; they bring out the competitors one by one and introduce them to the crowd. Then both the male and female preview their 1st problem, climb it and so on for #2 and #3. As I was the last to make finals, I was out first to climb.
2011 ABS 12 Open National Finals Report from Alex D. Johnson
Finals 1 (Bonus) The first problem was not your usual problem, it started with a goofy but fun mantle to friction paper in the shape of two hands, and then you fell into a pocket and threw out to a jug. In order to get to the next hold I a figure 4 came in handy. This was the first time that I had ever utilized a figure 4 so my first few attempts at reaching the next hold were rather sloppy. Lol After several attempts I ended up sticking the bonus hold, but falling shortly after in attempting to reach the next hold. I gave it a few more burns and managed to touch the second to last hold. It was cool being able to go 1stout on each of the problems, I felt it was a lot less stressful because you did not have to sit in the chair and wonder how everyone else had done. I was not stressed though for Finals because I did not have any expectations, I just too busy having too much fun; just happy to be in finals. No one managed to send problem #1 for the men, se we all entered problem #2 ready to take revenge and SEND!!
Finals 2 (Send)As soon as we turned around to preview the problem and I saw how the problem was, I knew this one was going to be fun. It suited my style perfectly. First attempt I just barely missed a key hold. Second time around I knew what had to be done, turned it on and Sent!! To my surprise problem #2 gave the others some trouble. The last move was rather unforgiving and spit off several of the climbers on the first attempts to the top.
Finals 3 (Bonus)Going into problem #3, I knew if I wanted, any chances of winning I was going to have at least get the bonus hold on my first try and or send the problem. I had a really good burn on the problem, just barely missing the finish hold after a rather large dyno that had skipped the last half of the problem. I had some good goes after this one, but this by far was my best attempt.
In the end, I ended up finishing in a very impressive 2nd place next to the very talented Sean Mcoll from Canada. I cannot describe to you how ecstatic I was when I had found out that I had placed 2nd in the 2011 Open ABS Nationals, earning me the title “2011 ABS NATIONAL CHAMPION.” I still cannot believe it! Haha
Next up is Youth ABS Nationals (Feb, 18-20). Then Canadian Nationals, World Cup in Canada, Vail and Arco Finals which is held in Italy this year! 2011 is going to be one fun year cannot wait!
Special thanks to all of my sponsors who have helped me throughout the years: Rock Candy Holds, Organic and Five Ten, and a very special thank you to my family and MOM!!!