Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

2011 ABS 12 Open National Semi-Finals Report from Alex D. Johnson

 
2011 ABS 12 Open National Semi-Finals Report from Alex D. Johnson
 
February 22, 2011 -  Alex David Johnson    
 

Really my only goal going into semi-finals was to make it to the final round, to be honest I didn’t care how I did (obviously I wanted to my best) but in reality just making it to the finals was good enough will all of the top competitors in the running such as D-Woods, Sean Mcoll, Magnus and others.  This time we only had 3 problems unlike the 6 for qualifiers.  It was very important that I flash every problem and or get the bonus hold 1st try if I wanted to get into finals later on that night.

 

Semi-Finals 1 (Flash) Problem 1 was put on the slab portion of the wall.  I had to think a second about how I was going to start the problem as the right hand was not very good and you had to do a slight dyno out right to thankfully what was a decent hold.  I did each move on this problem with the ut most care, as I knew flashing the first problem was very important in me advancing to the finals.  To my relief I flashed the problem setting me up nicely for the other 2 problems to come.

Semi-Finals 2 (Bonus) I really enjoyed problem number 2 as the holds were friendly and the moves my style.  I ended up sticking the bonus hold on my 2nd attempt, which I was very pleased with.  Sadly I was not able to finish the problem but I was happy with my performance and just glad I got the bonus hold.

Semi-Finals 3 This problem gave me some trouble; it started on two not so good slopers.  My first attempt I slid right off the holds onto my back lol.  I quickly got up before too many people saw haha.  Finally, I got my hands and feet right and was able to stick the next few moves.  I did not have the one arm strength to do the intended beta, so I tried a mono match to set myself up with the other hand for the next move.  It worked but I slipped going to the bonus hold. I knew that without the bonus on problem three it was going to be close as to whether or not I sneaked into finals.

 

Join the Community

Popular Stories

The Future of Comp Climbing? - Josh Levin
Josh Levin
07-04-2014 - 
The first time I stepped foot in Arco, Italy three years ago for...
Doing Durango! - Aicacia Young
Aicacia Young
07-03-2014 - 
I just got back home from a weeklong climbing trip to Durango, Colorado....
Boyz in the Hood - Urs Moosmuller
Urs Moosmuller
07-06-2014 - 
Boyz in the Hood is a mythical boulder problem hidden in the town...
Hiangle rocks!!! - Chris Muench
Muench
07-09-2014 - 
I just got the new Hiangle as a test shoe from Bergzeit... ...