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2011 ABS 12 Open Natl Qualifiers Report from Alex D. Johnson

2011 ABS 12 Open Natl Qualifiers Report from Alex D. Johnson
February 22, 2011 -  Alex David Johnson    

I was really excited this year for the 2011 ABS Nationals because unlike every other year, this year it was going to be held inside of a warehouse with optimal seating and a BRAND NEW wall!!! Unfortunately, I had not yet seen the wall so I did not know what to expect. Let me tell you though they did an AWESOME job on the wall once I finally saw it!! Thankfully, for qualifiers again this year we had six problems with four minutes climbing time and four-minute rest. I was very excited that we had six problems again this year. Because the competition was held inside of a warehouse, we had the option to choose where we wanted to warm up. I chose to go to the spot as I feel it is the best bouldering gym around. I was set to climb at 3:52 and let me tell you the time could not come quick enough! I could not wait to finally get on the wall and climb.


Qualifier 1 (Flash) Problem one went down rather easily, I felt it was a very nicely set problem to get everyone warmed up for the other 5 to come.

Qualifier 2 (Flash) I actually, like when I see slab problems at comps because it mixes it up and they are rather nice because you don’t get crazy pumped on them. I over gripped slightly on this problem just because I wanted be ready in case a foot slipped on me lol. Thankfully, my feet stayed solid and I was able to flash the second problem.

Qualifier 3 (Flash) I had a great time on this problem, big moves to solid pinches. For some reason my feet did not want to stay on for this problem, literally every move my feet decided to slip off, making for a rather epic climb haha.

Qualifier 4 (Flash) As soon as I turned around for problem four I knew and saw all of the small but positive crimps, I knew it was going down. I love crimpy style problems.

Qualifier 5 (Flash)As you can imagine I was pretty psyched at this moment having just flashed problems (1-4). For problem five, I went right hand to a pocket then for the next move had to throw out to a crimp. I was slightly nervous for this move because I could not find a way to do it static (as you can see in the video). I ended up blindly dyno-ing for the crimp over the lip and to my surprise and excitement, I caught it! The problem finished up with some technical crimp moves.

Qualifier 6 (Bonus)After climbing five problems, fatigue was starting to set in, although I still had enough gas in the tank for one good burn. I ended up getting the bonus without too much trouble. For some reason after pulling the crux move, I decided to down climb and try another way to get to the top (not smart idea) lol. My first burn ended up being my best attempt for this problem. Unfortunately, I was not able to keep the flash streak going, however I had made it to the next day which was all I really cared about.


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