After three months of training in a climbing gym in México City from Monday to Friday I started to feel a little bit loco. My mental well being return to normal every week end when I left the city to get to Jilotepec or Taxco two climbing zones 3 hours driving from my home. I discovered these places approximately five years ago and since then I have developed several projects there. Last year in November, a group of international climbers, some of whom I have met before, came to México and visited Jilotepec and Taxco. Meeting old pals and climbing together with them has been always very stimulating for me. In this encounter some of them asked me when I will be back to Peñoles in the state of Chihuahua. Sincerely, it was not in my plans going to Peñoles due to the violence generated by the conflict between security authorities and the organized crime. However, after 5 minutes of rethinking the situation I decided to reach Peñoles as soon as possible.
PeÑoles 2010-2011-Sow Chido
Two weeks later I drove north, non-stop, 15 hours to my final destination, Peñoles. In my last visit to this place, I left several V12 projects and one that could be a V16. With a machete in hand, a cloudy day in November I opened two V12: Humpa Lumpa is a small eight-movements roof first of them in crimps which would be the crux, a boulder with a safe fall. The other V12 is Cerebro de Iguana, a round boulder about 6 meters tall, three hard and long steps (on campus style) and with bad holdings. Sargento Pimienta a V11 with a hard entrance and uneasy until the end. Chirrión a V10 or V11, only three steps with a very technical exit; excellent granite and plane holdings. Ritmo Pirata a V10, an excellent boulder line, approximately 17 steps; first five only physical and the remaining ones technical, really a pleasure. This year I am planning to build a road between blocks for a circuit between V5 and V9. There is a very special boulder, 17 meters of height; first I climb it with rope and after feeling secure I reach the top after a fine battle.
Now I am waiting for cooler temperatures to continue working. Global heating is troublesome for climbers. I really enjoy living in this Mexican desert, surrounded by rattlesnakes, spiders, scorpions, bees, cows, few climbers and the best of all rocks, rocks, and more rocks. The nearest town is 15 kilometers away. Food and water are scanty and thus priceless. Watchful walking is a way of living to avoid shaking bees and wasp nests. I ask to myself if boulder zones in Europe and in USA where the same as Peñoles many years ago. Peñoles, place for lonely warriors.