It’s time to write something, now when my energy is back. In the future my blog will be probably a bit different as you were used to; less climbing stuff. But I hope you will keep reading it with interest. As you could conclude from the last sentence of my last blog, I am pregnant. I am very happy, but the first three months were much harder than I imagined (actually I didn’t know what to expect). Everybody around me was happy, but I wasn’t able to share those emotions. I was lying in my bed, completely without energy, with strong nauseas that were far from only morning sicknesses. I wasn’t able to eat, everything smelled horribly to me, instead of getting weight was losing it, pants were becoming to big and all my muscles disappeared. Walking upstairs felt like walking up in Ceuze. I was climbing a little bit, but as soon as the wall was steeper than vertical, even 5c felt incredibly strenuous. Without muscles it’s hard to climb. So, climbers, when you are hungry eat! Strict diets won’t make you stronger!
Pregnancy- climbing news from Martina
Luckily it happened as it’s written in all pregnancy books; after 3 months the nauseas were gone. What a relief! From that moment on I was really enjoying! In everything! But I am listening to my body even more then I did before. People seeing me climbing in not really easy routes, might think I am exaggerating, but I feel I don’t.
With Nico we were climbing a lot in Bionnassay (near Chamonix), where he had his big project; a route that was still unclimbed, estimated the first 8c of Byonnassay. It would also be his first 8c. I liked walking up to the wall (40min) and climbing (top rope) on the sun on 1500m, often just above the fog. I think I know Nicolas’s route as well as if I would have climbed it myself. All the moves, all the footholds, all the details in body positions. He seriously began working on the route in the end of December and today, on 16th of February he finally did it! Cool! His first 8c and the first ascent, all in one! I was experiencing it as my first 8c. With all the doubts, number of “just missed it” attempts, periods of good weather conditions, when he couldn’t climb because of his work, pains in the elbow, holes in the skin… But then there finally came the moment where everything was perfect and the route suddenly seemed easier. Clipping the top all his emotions came out, he screamed: “Acharnement!”(never give up) which will probably be route’s name.
I will for sure still come to Bionnassay, since I was working out the moves of one really nice, long and technical 8a+, Les coudes au Zenith. Not to do it now of course, but in a year or so. I was really enjoying the moves, I had to take a rest 2 or 3 times, but I really didn’t care. Important is to enjoy and feel good!
Similar story happened in Slovenia, where I spent last two weeks. I was climbing a lot with Lucija Franko (ex competition climber, now a good architect). After 2 years she tried one 8a+ in Bitnje – Naš Tito (Our Tito). Of course, having top rope ready, I couldn’t resist the temptation to try the route from bolt to bolt. Being really weak in the moment, I was looking even more for footholds as usually, finding some solutions also for Lucija and one good rest that helped her a lot when she did her successful attempt! Congratulations Lucija!
On Saturday I joined the whole Slovenian expedition to the boulders in Maltatal (A). This time I was not so sure if my idea of bouldering is clever. I shouldn’t fall… I said to the boys: “ I go with you to a trip, I am not sure that will climb, I will take my book with me, I just want to spend a nice day in the nature”. But finally the boys (12!) were waiting exactly for me, to finish my little boulder project in the last daylight. I really felt safe in their company, they were spotting me so well that they just put me back to the ground.
And now it’s time to toast to Nico’s 8c! With juice