After the first month of 2011, it seems that this year could be eventually better than the last! Hopefully! With -10 degrees and so much snow it wasn’t hard to make a decision: Driving to Ticino as often as possible. Two shorter trips in January, more or less in preparation for the main Trip during February until March. So I tried to figure out the sequences of my main goals for the next visit and get used to the granite by climbing a few remained “easier” ones.
The first two Months of 2011 for Fabian Christof
As I already knew, Ticino has many hidden 5 star problems to offer. Also for people like me who visited this area for almost 12 years now. Two of them are Pampelmouse 8A and Forever More 8A +. Both of them are beautiful. Forever More is a river polished boulder with a hard crimpy starting sequence which leads into a quite slopy mantle. Two very different characteristics connected in one single problem! The other one is a 30° overhanging wall with perfect granite tufas but more simple in its climbing than Forever More. Beside them i repeated Cellar Door, Anchors Punch, Polly Pocket (flash) and the new Jungle Sit Down (all 8A). Especially during the second trip my climbing on granite felt much more familiar and I had some good efforts on From Dirts, Dagger and Vecchia. To climb even one of them would be very satisfying!
Meanwhile at home I had some intense training sessions on my Beast and the Wall but also outdoors. Coming home after the sunny and dry Ticino experience was hard. Snow and freezing temperatures didn´t motivate me so much. Therefore, many thanks to my wife that she forced me to climb outdoor. After a long time of trying, blood and frustration, I finished “The Thread” 8B. It´s a steep 60° limestone wall with burly and big moves on edges and crimps. The crux was to stay fresh enough for the last moves, which require a lot of body tension. This was definitely one of my hardest fights against constantly bad conditions, my mind and something that I can´t describe. Although the moves felt finally so easy, something has gone very wrong every single try! In my opinion, “The Thread” deserves the grade 8B+. We will see what other repeaters think about the difficulty!
On the day after the ascent, the bad weather came back and everything is wet again. Let´s have some last sessions and waiting for Monday. Ticino!