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The first two Months of 2011 for Fabian Christof

The first two Months of 2011 for Fabian Christof
The first two Months of 2011 for Fabian Christof
The first two Months of 2011 for Fabian Christof
The first two Months of 2011 for Fabian Christof
February 08, 2011 -  Fabian Christof    

After the first month of 2011, it seems that this year could be eventually better than the last! Hopefully! With -10 degrees and so much snow it wasn’t hard to make a decision: Driving to Ticino as often as possible. Two shorter trips in January, more or less in preparation for the main Trip during February until March. So I tried to figure out the sequences of my main goals for the next visit and get used to the granite by climbing a few remained “easier” ones.


As I already knew, Ticino has many hidden 5 star problems to offer. Also for people like me who visited this area for almost 12 years now. Two of them are Pampelmouse 8A and Forever More 8A +. Both of them are beautiful. Forever More is a river polished boulder with a hard crimpy starting sequence which leads into a quite slopy mantle. Two very different characteristics connected in one single problem! The other one is a 30° overhanging wall with perfect granite tufas but more simple in its climbing than Forever More. Beside them i repeated Cellar Door, Anchors Punch, Polly Pocket (flash) and the new Jungle Sit Down (all 8A). Especially during the second trip my climbing on granite felt much more familiar and I had some good efforts on From Dirts, Dagger and Vecchia. To climb even one of them would be very satisfying!

Meanwhile at home I had some intense training sessions on my Beast and the Wall but also outdoors. Coming home after the sunny and dry Ticino experience was hard. Snow and freezing temperatures didn´t motivate me so much. Therefore, many thanks to my wife that she forced me to climb outdoor. After a long time of trying, blood and frustration, I finished “The Thread” 8B. It´s a steep 60° limestone wall with burly and big moves on edges and crimps. The crux was to stay fresh enough for the last moves, which require a lot of body tension. This was definitely one of my hardest fights against constantly bad conditions, my mind and something that I can´t describe. Although the moves felt finally so easy, something has gone very wrong every single try! In my opinion, “The Thread” deserves the grade 8B+. We will see what other repeaters think about the difficulty!

On the day after the ascent, the bad weather came back and everything is wet again. Let´s have some last sessions and waiting for Monday. Ticino!

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