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Best Slovenian female aplinist of the year 2010

Best Slovenian female aplinist of the year 2010
Best Slovenian female aplinist of the year 2010
January 19, 2011 -  Martina    

It's about time to finish my »hibernation« and write something after almost two months. The sun is also getting strong as it was springtime and there no trace left from snow from November's photo.


I will start with the last evening’s ceremony in Domžale, where they announced the best slovenian alpinists and sport climbers of the year 2010. I had an honor to become the best female alpinist! I was really surprised and happy. I even don’t consider myself being an alpinist, since I never climb mountains in winter conditions; I have horror of cold, snow, ice which are part of real alpinism. When I was 12 I did some exams for “alpinist trainee”, since there wasn’t any sport climbing schools yet. That was all from my “official” alpinist path.

After I stopped my competition career I indeed was inspired and attracted by higher and higher walls, where the protection wasn’t always “sport climbing one”, so I was spontaneously learning and getting experiences with some “alpinist” skills and trad climbing. Paklenica (CRO), Taghia (MA), Verdon (FR), Aiguilles above Chamonix (FR) and most of all, El Capitan (USA) are the walls where I learned the most.

In the last season we did quite some multipitch routes with my boyfriend Nico. Some of them required adaptation to the altitude and approach over the glacier, which means that you need crampons and ice axes. I feel so uncomfortable with these tools! But until they are used only to approach the warm granite and then you leave them under the wall, and climb light in T-shirt, it’s acceptable for me:-)

So you see, I am not and will never be a real alpinist.

If I make a line under the past “multipitch” season, I can’t go over the bitter taste of the fact that on many of our bigger projects we were stopped or bothered by bad weather condition (Taghia, project in Gran Capucin and El Corazon). This is the list of my multipitch routes:

1. 9.4.2010 Les dents de l'amer Balme/Cluses 150m 800m 7c+

2. 26.4.2010 Axe du mal Tadrarat/Taghia 500m 2803m 7c

3. 27. 4. 2010 Rouge Berbere Tadrarat/Taghia 560m 2803m 7a+/trad

4. 4.5.2010 Babybel Paroi de Cascade/Taghia 300m 2600m 8a, first repetition

5. 6.5.2010 L'oeil de Lynx Timghazine/Taghia 250m 3000m 7a+

6. 29.6.2010 Super Dupont Face Sude de L'aiguille du Midi 160m 3842m 7b/trad

7. 1.7.2010 Police des glaciers Pointe Adolph Rey 250m 3535m 6c+/trad

8. 3.7.2010 Arrete de Purtshceller Ag. Purtscheller 300m 3457m V+

9. 6.7.2010 Ligne blanche La Chandelle 200m 3561m 7a+/trad

10. 18.7.2010 L'echo des alpeges Gran Capucin 400m 3838m 7a+/trad

11. 21.7.2010 Draculacescu Blatiere 250m 3170m 6c+/trad

12. 24.7.2010 Duel Balme/Cluses 170m 800m 8a

13. 30.8.2010 Sunset boulevar Haegefljel/Norway 500m 1022m 6b/trad

14. 5.9.2010 Bonne ethique Trident de Tacul 150m 3639m 6c+/trad

15. 26.9.2010 Hot Line Elephant rock/Yosemite 150m ??? 7a+/trad

16. 11.-15.10.2010 Le Corazon El Capitan 1000m 2307m 8a(C2)/trad

After being many times sport climber of the year during my competition career, the golden piolet for the best alpinist represents a special, symbolic award for me. It closes in a very nice way a chapter of my current climbing path which will take new direction this year. Don’t worry I will continue climbing, it’s in my blood, but there’s a new, more important life challenge coming up; in my belly there’s a new life growing!!!


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