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Blackwings: The Best Climbing Shoe EVER?

Blackwings: The Best Climbing Shoe EVER?
Blackwings: The Best Climbing Shoe EVER?
November 05, 2010 -  Five Ten    

...According to Josh Haynes they are. Here's his review:

"So I am going to take some time here and talk about a new shoe that Five Ten has come out with... the “BlackWings”

They are basically a new version of the old velcro® dragons we all loved so much. You may be asking yourself, “If we loved them so much, then why did they stop making them?” Unfortunately, being so aggressive as well as so expensive, the Dragons were ahead of their time. Through the years, the aggressive shoe movement has come along way.  Five Ten brought back the Dragon in a lace form, which is arguably one of the best shoes ever made. However, many people including myself missed the velcro® from the original dragons. Our prayers have been answered.


Five Ten has released a new velcro® shoe based on the Dragons of old. With a new better heel, easier on/off velcro® system, super sticky high friction rubber, and a sick new color scheme, the BlackWings are a perfect shoe. Think about it, you take everything you loved about the dragons minus the things you didn’t, and you’ve got the BlackWings.

Rachel and I have been climbing in these shoes for 3 weeks now, and are in love. Rachel has been climbing in the lady BlackWings, offering her a perfect combination of performance and fit. I have been trying to get Rachel to wear aggressive shoes for 3 years now, with no luck. After trying the BlackWings on for the first time she was hooked. “It’s like I’m cheating with these shoes on”, were her exact words after the first day of climbing in them. As many of you know I was recently wearing Sportiva’s solution, and loved them. As many of you also know, I have always proclaimed the velcro® dragons to be my all time favorite shoe. Well, it is safe to say that the new BlackWings easily take the number one spot. The edging, toeing down, and heel hooking capabilities with this shoe are far superior than any shoe I have ever tried.

For a size comparison, I wear a 7.5 in the BlackWings, a 7.5 in the Teams, a 7 in the 5X’s, and 37’s in Sportiva’s.

Rachel wears a women’s sz 8 in the BlackWings, and a women’s sz 7 in the Anasazi LV’s.

I highly recommend trying the BlackWings out, I think they are an amazing climbing shoe, maybe the BEST ever."

Thanks Josh and Rachel for trying out the new shoes and the great review.

Blog taken from


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