Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Markus Eder's Path to his First 9a - Intermezzo XY gelöst

 
Markus Eder's Path to his First 9a - Intermezzo XY gelöst
Markus Eder's Path to his First 9a - Intermezzo XY gelöst
Markus Eder's Path to his First 9a - Intermezzo XY gelöst
Markus Eder's Path to his First 9a - Intermezzo XY gelöst
 
November 05, 2010 -  Markus Eder    
 

Since I started climbing my greatest idol was Klem Loskot. Our ways crossed from time to time, but I never thought that I would follow his track so closely. In the past few years it has often been his routes which fascinated me the most.

In 2008 I managed to repeat Mandala (8c+) in one day, followed by the classic Wrestling with an Alligator, my first 8b boulder, just a day later. Six months after that I made the second ascent of Hunta yo (8c+) - all routes of Klem. The following year I spent some time studying in Sweden. Shortly after my return to Austria, I managed to do the first ascent of Hijacker Extended (8c), and quick repeats of Klem's routes Hardcore Petting (8c) and Gargamel (8b). At this point I realized that my limit hasn’t been reached yet.

 

So the next project, of course one of Klem’s routes, was Intermezzo XY gelöst (9a) at the Plombergstein. Due to the typical style for this area (short, hard and technical) the route fascinated me since the very beginning. After a few days I managed to climb all moves separately, but the traverse at the end was still a big challenge. After my return from North America, where I spent the summer, I discovered that the different styles of climbing overseas brought good improvements on Intermezzo. Four more days on the route, a fall on the last move, and a new beta for the traverse, led to the third ascent of the route.

 

Join the Community

Popular Stories

Indian Creek to the Red Rock Rendezvous and Beyond - Chris Schulte
04-08-2014 - 
Back again for another Red Rock Rendezvous, this time fresh from the Utah...
Plastic & Rock: ‘Tis the Season…for both? - Angela Payne
04-14-2014 - 
There comes a time every year when the weather begins to improve, the...
Sweet Sandstone - Nicholas Milburn
04-11-2014 - 
What is a better way to spend spring break than bouldering on sweet...
Final Days in Guadalcazar - Urs Moosmuller
Urs Moosmuller
04-11-2014 - 
Most of my trip to Mexico has been spent climbing in Guadalcazar, Mexico....