Around 40 degrees. Forty-five percent humidity. Slight breeze. Leaves colored like fire. And little Rumney gremlins trolling around the forest. What does all this equal? Perfect conditions. I warmed up on a few boulders for about 30 minutes, walked over to B-Boy, and sent first try of the day. On previous attempts, I felt like a thousand pounds with a ball and chain attached to my ankles. Today, I felt really light–maybe the way Daniel Woods or Adam Ondra feel when they float out of bed in the morning. Either way, I had a great time climbing this one.
If there is one ‘all-important’ thing I have learned about projecting so far, it’s this: find the groove and stay in it until your finished. What the dingle does that mean? Finding time to come up to Rumney from Boston, a two hour drive, was part of the crux, and always will be for anybody who wheels at 40+ hour work week. All the training in the world means nothing if you can’t get out frequently to the project you want to finish. Anytime I have ever done anything outside, I have tried it 2-3 times a week until it goes. This groove, staying in a constant state of battle until it’s over, is crucial to how I operate. Some climbers are different of course, but I find this works the best for me. If it’s too hot. Just get out and try it. If it’s too cold. Just get out and try it. If you’re too tired, just get out and try it. I’ll never be strong enough, certainly not right now, to just own a hard climb, so the alternative is to grind it out. This approach has been super rewarding so far.
In other news, my buddy Neil Mushaweh is getting closer and closer to Steady Slobbin’ (5.14b) or maybe (c), now that the goldfish match hold has broken. Bottom line: the day this route goes will be one of the greatest days in Neil’s climbing career, or at least the greatest viewing day in mine if I’m lucky enough to be there. Today, Neil came close to ripping off his ring-finger nail on a redpoint burn and could not stop bleeding. Jesus. Maybe he’s not trying hard enough?