During the last three months in Mexico City I have been training from 6 to 7 hours a day, and when the weather of the summer allowed it I bolted some routes at El Chonta, close to Taxco, in the state of Guerrero, at the Chanchuyo sector. This is a very large cave, full of limestone tufas and stalactites, which makes climbing style very particular.
Diego Montull Spends 3 Months in Mexico City and Taxco
The two new routes I bolted are at the right side, in the very bottom of the cave. One is named Chanchuyeando (5.14a) and the other one is Narcolepsia (5.14b/c). Each of them is around 20 meter long, and they both are very bouldery. They are still projects because the weather at this time of the year is too humid and warm, so it is smarter just to bolt routes now and climb them until December.
On the other hand, last August I open two boulder problems at Salazar, in the State of Mexico, very close to Mexico City, where I actually opened my first projects, seven years ago.
On the left side of the boulder, named The Master Piece, I found one of these new problems, called Magic Finger (V12), which has a notable crux; one pass from a crimp to a bad sloper, then a long movement to a another small crimp. After this, you have to make 5 moves on moss… That’s it! In this same boulder is located the other problem, called Kakaka, a V10 traverse to the right.
Now, I can only wait for better weather, to go up to the north to look for new boulders, routes and multi pitches.