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Peter Whittaker: Gritstone's first and last clip up crag

Peter Whittaker: Gritstone's first and last clip up crag
October 05, 2010 -  Peter Whittaker    

Higgar tor the other day seemed to be a popular destination. Every man and his dog was there (3 dogs infact.) Anyway to start with it was just me and a few mates out for a bit of a trading day out. As each of us wanted to lead we ended up dropping the ropes after each lead and left the gear in for our partner to just follow up as a clip up. Then we would swap leads to let each other be able to place gear.


Before we realized the crag was laced in gear, (as no one had done any seconding to get the gear out,) a bit like a Christmas tree as we liked to call it, and by this time every man and his dog had in fact arrived, before we knew it our trad gear had become the latest bits of gear to clip in the Peak. word must have spread as I've never seen Higgar so busy, forget that the Cornice is the driest its been for 10 years, Higgar tor was where it was at. I think every route on the crag got an ascent and Neil Foster's (who was actually there) classic route 'Block and Tackle,' got a good treatment of 4 ground up ascents! (including one from me,) Maybe more in 3 hours then its ever had! Unfortunately you will have missed the first clip up routes on a Gritstone crag, because the face has now in fact been stripped of our trad gear, haha!.....well we did need it back!


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