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Ned Feehally's Rehab: Part 2

Ned Feehally's Rehab: Part 2
September 30, 2010 -  Ned Feehally    

On the mend...

I realized that if I could find problems with big or at least open handed left hand holds, I would be able to start bouldering again, and maybe even try hard. First off was Revolver – an 8a+ I had tried before but written off as I thought it was too reachy for me (what a rubbish attitude…) The holds are all quite big, but very un-positive and very far apart, requiring maximum tension to link. It wasn’t too reachy at all, I was just grovelling for excuses after getting shut down. After a session working it out and falling off the last move endlessly, I went back on a cooler day and did it. Up the hill is another roof with a lovely slopey ramp running across it. Mike Adams had climbed this last year at 8aish – fortunately the holds were sloping and the style suited me perfectly. I did it and set about the direct start which straightens out the line a bit. Slightly harder but just as good.


Next I went over to North Wales to find some more big holds.Pool of Bethesda (8a+) is a short power problem revolving around 1 very hard move from a big (but sloping) hold, to another big (but sloping) hold. The move just shouldn’t be hard, but somehow it is – maybe the feet are in a bad place or something. Paul Higginson robbed the FA off Jerry Moffatt back in Jan 2001 (this problem has some good history!) and since then it has only had a handful of repeats, all of them coming from men much stronger than myself…

Anyway, after far too many goes I stuck THE move and got to the top, just. I hardly felt satisfied as I had spent a session and a half falling off 1 ugly lurch move, tearing my hand to pieces! Never mind. Next door is an 8a+ power endurance link up called Mr. Fantastic. It links 2 7cs with a powerful shouldery section. I have done the 2 7cs before, and done the link section, but never had a go with the intention of actually putting it together. I decided that this was a stupid, lazy attitude, and that I should try my very best to link it – after all, every hold is big so how hard can it be? First go on the link I fell on the last hard move after catching a pocket slightly wrong. This really pissed me off as it was just a lack of concentration and accuracy that prevented me from doing it. Next go I pulled on knowing that I wasn’t going to make the same mistake and linked the line of (big) holds all the way to the end. It was nice to feel like I was climbing pretty well, considering the minimal amount of training I have been doing.

(Sean’s roof - see earlier blog -  doesn’t really fit into this rehab timeline – however it is very rarely dry, so as soon as it did dry I just had to get on it. Even if it set my finger back a couple of weeks. To be honest I am glad I did as it’s the best thing I climbed this summer.)


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