Ouch, my finger!
I hurt my finger back in Feb, just before the comps were going to start. I was feeling really strong and psyched, and then suddenly I could hardly pull on jugs. How frustrating. I limped through the comp season and ended up doing pretty badly (surprise surprise). However, in the 2 comps where my finger felt ok I managed to get into the semi finals – not too bad considering the lack of preparation.
After that it was time for some serious rehab. Many of the perma-wet peak sport routes dried out this summer for the first time in years so it seemed like a good idea to tie in and start trying to route climb. It was hard, but fortunately the holds on routes tend to be big so I could pull quite hard – for a while at least, until I got too pumped (at about 10m). Still, it was a good experience as everything that I climbed was totally new to me which is a change from climbing on the same boulders over and over again.
Eventually I got up a handful of 8s – flashing 2 8as (Let the Tribe Increase and Free Monster at Water Cum Jolly) and redpointing Zeke the Freak – Ben Moons 8b which he put up the year I was born – 1987.
That was enough of that. I got bored of being limited by fear and pump so I went back to the boulders with a slightly better finger...