September is usually an excellent time to climb in Squamish. The days tend to be cold but still fairly dry, making those summer projects sticky enough to send. Unfortunately, the rain seems to have shown up a little early this year an we haven't had as many days outside as I would like. The few days we have gotten out, I've tried to make the most of.
Ryan Olson's Soggy Fall Season
The new bouldering guide for Squamish (Squamish Bouldering, 2nd Ed. by Mark Bourdon) has caused a bit of a renaissance in the boulders. Old, grown-over problems are being cleaned up and re-climbed throughout the forest. I have been happy to find many classic hard problems that are new to me, and it has kept me busy.
The guidebook includes a list of the top 100 problems, and that is where I've put a lot of my effort recently. Currently, I'm about half way through the list, which spans from V0 to V14. I'm psyched to try to climb at least 95% of the list, and I think with time this will be an attainable goal. I highly recommend that anyone visiting Squamish checks out this great new guidebook.
Outside of bouldering, I have been putting some effort into Dreamcatcher 5.14d. This on top of my list of long-term goals, and is probably the best sport route I have ever seen. I have started to make some links on the route but still have a very long way to go. I was pretty psyched to make a four-clip link the other day - A small victory but progress nonetheless. Working the route with my friend, Mike Foley, has been very motivating and a good learning experience. Mike is climbing very well on the route, and I think he has a good chance of sending it this year if the weather gets better.
The rain has been disappointing but has allowed me to spend more time in the gym, training for the upcoming comp season. I'm excited to get back into plastic shape, and plan to do lots of comps (both locally and abroad) in the upcoming year.
I hope everyone is having an excellent fall wherever you are!