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Common Misconception by Peter Whittaker

 
Common Misconception by Peter Whittaker
 
September 15, 2010 -  Peter Whittaker    
 

New route climbed at Stanage.

Yesterday afternoon, i managed to climb another new grit route. I was pretty psyched doing this route as it was at Stanage, and it always has to be a privilage to climb a new route on one of the most famous gritstone edges. It also made it better because this one was infact excellent, and thats hard to find on Stanage where almost every inch of rock has been climbed!

 

Anyway the route was supposedly an old 'last great problem' for grit (see the old grit list lgp page http://www.oocities.com/yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_lgp.html The route I was trying is just to the left of the 1994 technical Stanage testpiece 'Flight of Ideas,' and described as The Far Left Hand Rib of Tower Face - A few faint 'scallops' are all there above a good break. Big fall-out zone.

I got on it anyway and realised that really it wasn't that bad, not a true lgp in standard terms by a long way, however the climbing was brilliant, with some really balancy interesting moves.

Anyway the temperatures were quite good for September, yesterday afternoon, and it went down, not before being nearly blown off the high upper arete (it was veryyy windy,) which would have resulted in a monster fall!

So, I called the route 'Common Misconception,' because basically i think alot of people just think that there are no new routes left to do on grit when there obviously is! I gave it E6 6c, (however it has big spice for this grade) which isn't the hardest thing ever especially not for a lgp, but again i just think this shows if your psyched enough there are slightly more amenable new routes for everyone to get done out there on probably the most worked out rock in the world!

Here is a link of some photos of me on the lead (you can see how windy it is, just look at the trees in the background, and a different cloud in the sky everytime i do a move, haha - http://picasaweb.google.com/WildCountry1/PeteWhittakerFirstAscentOfCommonMisconceptionE66CStanageUK#)

 

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