I came to Rocklands this year with one main goal in mind, to make the second ascent of Monkey Wedding, V15. This climb was originally put up by Fred Nicole many years ago. The climb begins sitting on an edge for the left and undercut for the right. You first trend up and left with some difficult moves which leads you into the crux sequence. The crux revolves around a very hard left hand undercling that you have to do a very hard move to and off of with a terrible slopey heel hook. The final move of the climb, before ascending a 7a rail, became the final cross over move into the jug.
Paul Robinson Completes Monkey Wedding, V15
I fell on this move and the move before so many times I cannot even bear to count. On the last day of climbing in Rocklands, I warmed up and felt very good and hoped I would be able to put Monkey Wedding to rest. On my fifth go of the day, I managed to stick the final cross move to the rail and ventured to the top! It was an amazing feeling to send such an awesome line that sat for so long unrepeated.
My girlfriend and I are now in Europe! We are going to be heading to Austria first and then off to Switzerland for the Fall! Stay tuned for more updates!