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Condé de Choc 9a/5.14d!!

 
Condé de Choc 9a/5.14d!!
 
September 07, 2010 -  Gabriele Moroni    
 

2nd Ascent of a very nice bouldery route in the granite crag of Entraygues, France!!...

 

Sunday I finally climbed my small project in Entraygues,France...Condé de Choc! It is a short bouldery route opened by Tony Lamiche in 2006. It is basically two hard boulder problems with a good rest in between. First boulder problem is the hardest one at about 8a/a+ bloc. It starts with a big move with a not so good left heel hook from two good holds to a bad polished edge. From here you get a slopey finger lock right hand and a very bad pinch left hand and you throw to a decent slopey edge but very up high. The dyno is okay because you have a very good foothold but the hard part is holding the huge swing!This is the hardest move of the route and it has been my nightmare for several sessions!

Once you kept the swing you do a couple of easier moves until you get a big rail where you can shake very well and get ready for the second part of the route.. This part is actually easier(8b?) but the moves are heinous and weird and you can easily fall at every move, even at the very last one! Luckily I figured out this part very well so I knew I had good chances to climb it to the top if I was going to do the move ... In fact once I completed the move on the link I've not fallen afterwards! This route took me about 5days total of work. I tried one day this summer when I was in Ceuse and another day a couple of weeks ago. Last week I came back to try with Enzo Oddo who was also working on the route. After two days of being very close to do the move I felt I could do it i the next attempts. So I took a rest day and the day after I completed it on my second try with a very good crowd watching and cheering! Thanks alot! I also want to thank Enzo Oddo(also 5.10 athlete) and Romain Wohlgroth for the support they gave me in these days!...

 

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