Squamish, then to the Alpine...
Summer seems to be the season that pass quickest for me. July and August, in particular, zip by. Guiding, climbing, and barbeques… it’s over before I know it. Things are cooling down here in Squamish. Soon the rains will come, it’ll be time to leave.
In late July , Alex Honnold and I linked up four different routes on the Chief: The Free Grand Wall (5.13-), University Wall with the Roman Chimneys (5.12a), Northern Lights (5.12a), and Freeway (5.11d). 40 pitches, all told. None of us fell, and the whole link up took about 13.5 hours, car to car. We weren’t out to set any sort of record. I learned lots climbing with Alex, whom I consider to be among the very best climbers in the world. Since this is the Five Ten site, I’ll say what shoes I wore: Anasazi Verde for the crux slab pitch on the Grand, and the 5X for everything else. I couldn’t ask for better boots, and I really mean that.
I also went to the Northern Selkirks and made the first free ascent of the south face of the Turret, a beautiful 600 meter face. My partner Andrew Boyd and I got caught in a storm at the top of the face, and I got really cold. After we sent the face, we punched down 1000 feet of snow in our rock shoes. Again, the 5xs came through for me, proving their versatility.
After the Adamants, my girlfriend Hazel Findlay and I ventured to the Bugaboos. I climbed the huge ‘All Along the Watchtower’ with Andrew Rennie in 20 hours, Applebee to Applebee camp. The shoes of choice? You guessed it, the 5Xs…
Give my blog a look if you’d like to see a more detailed description of these climbs.
For now, I’m in Squamish, working, and pining for Yosemite. I’m very excited.