Yesterday, after a long drive to the huge metropolis of Belo Horizonto on Sunday, we got an early start to check out a classic power boulder from Felipe called Amnesia. I warmed up and checked the moves... I was surprised on how the boulder suited my style. Compression, steep, about 45 degrees, and small holds. It's 8 moves long so it's quick to the point. You have to hit the moves perfectly with no hesitation. Bouldering at it's finest.
Jon Cardwell Boulders Amnesia
I gave one shot from the start and just missed the last crimper, a quarter pad incut sidepull that bites, my skin already burned so i knew I didn't have many more tries. I waited about 20 minutes for a nice breeze and pulled on without thinking, I snatched the edge, enough to stick, I knew it was nearly in the bag, one more jump move and its over. Don't think about the pain just go. I moved my feet and leaped. I topped out and finished Amnesia, one of the best 8B's I have ever climbed. Perfect!