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Brazil update from Jon Cardwell

 
Brazil update from Jon Cardwell
Brazil update from Jon Cardwell
 
August 24, 2010 -  Jon Cardwell    
 

O Dia Santo

Yesterday after enjoying a slow morning with the crew in Sao Bento we headed out late for some climbing. First up was the area Aranha, named after a local climber who apparently looks like a spider. Probably not the best name to have, especially in an area with huge caves everywhere...anyway, the climbing is great!

 

The area, a huge grassy hillside littered with blocs topped off with a massive cave/arch feature contains the largest concentration of unclimbed boulders that I have seen yet.  I was psyched to try O Dia Santo, which is about 40 minutes away in a different valley so resting was the program till the evening.  I spent the time to chill with the crew and scope some new lines.  I cannot wait to return to this area, there are multiple projects to try!  We'll spend a week here after a short trip up north to Belo Horizonte for a competition and yet again more boulders and more projects.  Around 4 p.m. we headed out.

O Dia Santo, V13, is an amazing boulder put up by Andre Beresoski aka Bele a couple years ago and could be the most well know boulder in Brazil.  The line is almost perfect, starting with a difficult move off of a sloper to resistance section ending with a difficult jump move... the crux for me.  I warmed up quickly as the light was fading.  I gave one try and fell at the end because my hand slipped off from the grease... The 2nd try was better and closer but I slipped off, again from the grease.  The 3rd try i was fatigued and the light was dim, i knew it would be my last attempt so i had to dig deep.  I started feeling more tired than the previous tries but the motivation was high, sometimes it's all I need.  I arrived once again at the last move and stuck it for a second longer, just enough time to rapid-fire my other hand to match the lip.  I topped out desperately and gave a shout out of excitement.  It was close, almost too close but the improve beta prevailed.  Good motivation is sometimes all that matters and when you surprise yourself the climb is even more satisfying.

Very content, we headed out for once again another amazing BBQ at Bele's (Andre Beresoski) house in Sao Bento.  Today is the last day in Sao Bento for about a week.  We are heading up to Belo Horizonte for a competition.  The city is also home to Amenisia, an amazing looking boulder Felipe put up last year.  Should be a busy week!

 

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