Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Jason Kruk Climbs Emperor Face New Route

 
Jason Kruk Climbs Emperor Face New Route
Jason Kruk Climbs Emperor Face New Route
 
August 03, 2010 -  Jason Kruk    
 

On June 20, Myself and Jon Walsh climbed a new line up the storied Emperor Face on Mt. Robson (3959m), the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.

 

On Friday the 18th, after deejaying the Test of Metal blockparty in Squamish, I hopped in my truck and drove the 10 hours through the night to meet Jon in the Robson parking lot mid-morning.  We hiked in quickly and established a camp below the face.

Despite the continuous, cerebral (read: scary) nature of the climbing, it was a pure pleasure to climb such entertaining and sustained mixed ground for so long.  We climbed quickly, swinging leads the entire way up the face. I can call the hardest pitch I lead M7 with a straight face. We hit the top of the face at midnight as lightning struck to the north, clouds enveloped around us, and it started to snow a little.  At the time the decision was pretty easy to go down the Emperor Ridge and not continue to the summit.  Now, I can't help but wonder 'what if?'

It always seemed a little silly to argue over the very definitions we climbers make up ourselves.  Summit or not, it definitely felt like a new route.  In correspondence with a longtime Rockies climber, another hero of mine, his point was clear: "we're not arguing black or white here, rather, different shades of ugly".

Look for a feature article I'm writing for Gripped Magazine.

Read the Alpinist Magazine report here

 

Popular Stories

The Nightmare Before Sendmas (Hopefully!!!) - Erica Carlson
Erica Carlson
11-27-2014 - 
About a week ago, we had the first Alberta Climbing Association (ACA) comp...
Boulders in Gatineau - Hans Montenegro
12-02-2014 - 
This post shows the boulders in Gatineau (Luskville, bloc du penguin and Home...
The Mite of the Cave, Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Ferran Guerrero Hervas
11-25-2014 - 
After a section to write my chronicles time, I'm back here, not in...
My Last ABS Season - Zoe Steinberg
Zoe Steinberg
12-08-2014 - 
There have definitely been times where I’ve neglected to update this as much...